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Higher up, above the clearings, the forest canopy offers some relief from the scorching sun. The waterfall, which plunges over a 35 metre cliff of lava, almost disappears in a cloud of vapour before reaching the plunge-pool at its base. But the down-draft of cool, moist air is a welcome relief from the energy-sapping heat and humidity of the jungle.
With Martin as interpreter we sat and talked for a long time. Jorge told me the names and uses of the trees and plants. He talked a little about his life on Ometepe enough to reveal that this small island in Lake Nicaragua encompasses his entire world.