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Romancing the pig

Free range pork settles into Squamish Valley

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“I remember that my husband and I scoffed at the requirements for the certification,” she says, “given that we were considering giving a couple of acres to 10 to 15 pigs.”

Fraser happily shows off the large expanse she and her husband are carving out of their 25-acre farm. At the same time, she doesn’t want the business to get too big. In an industry borne on robust ethics, size matters.

“We are never going to be a big scale business,” she says. “It’ll always be small scale for us.”

The trick is that free range ethics sometimes overlap with another set of beliefs that call for smaller industrial footprints, 100 mile diets and relationships between consumers and producers. And here’s another bend in the road Fraser is quick to manoeuvre: Had she stayed a vegetarian, and had she been an activist about it, how readily available would vegetables be without manure from farm animals to fertilize their growth?

She chuckles a little at that one. As with many romances, the one between people and their food can be complicated.