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Hard work, attention to detail, keeping up with trends behind Evergreens’ success

"I loved Kitchen Confidential! I couldn't stop laughing! My wife was wondering why I was laughing so hard."

And what was so murderously funny about Anthony Bourdain’s expose of New York’s eateries that he slaved in for the last quarter century?

"Oh, the stories just rang so true! I don't know one chef who hasn't read that book who hasn't been either laughing their head off or nodding their head in grim acknowledgement of what can go on in a kitchen."

So explains Don Ryan, executive chef at the Delta Whistler Resort’s Evergreens restaurant, on why chef Anthony Bourdain's book has been such a hit with chefs and food fans.

Bourdain’s expose included harrowing tales of frenzied drug use and crazed screaming at underlings which Ryan couldn’t identify with. But the 14-hour days and the ulcerous pressure of staffing, ordering, preparing and serving high end meals was something Ryan knows all too well after being in the cooking business for the last 24 years.

Ryan got his start in the hotel restaurant biz at the Ottawa's Radisson Hotel, after graduating from Algonquin College with his cooking papers.

"I like staying in one place. I don't move around much," he says.

"Plus, I was on Canada's national cross country ski team. I really enjoyed that. It didn't pay much, so I had to give it up and get back into cooking."

Moving west, Ryan stayed close to two years as a sous chef at a Holiday Inn in Edmonton.

"I didn't like Edmonton that much, so when a job opened up in Banff I leapt at it."

Ryan spent six years at Banff's Rim Rock Restaurant before moving to Whistler four years ago to become the executive chef at Evergreens. It’s a move that has agreed with Ryan, as he is an avid outdoorsman who can't get his fill of fishing.

"The fishing and hiking here are so awesome. It’s just so full on to catch a rainbow trout as long as my arm or a fresh salmon."

In terms of his restaurant, Ryan says Evergreens has a unique niche in Whistler as it serves high end food while the restaurant itself maintains a family atmosphere.

Ryan was equally high on the Delta’s commitment to quality on its diverse but traditional menu. Just a quick peruse of Evergreens’ appetizers is enough to get one salivating, with such fare as warm duck breast, B.C. smoked salmon served sushi style and baked goat cheese from Salt Spring Island. If you're a soup fan, try Ryan’s wild mushroom soup, a mix of wild mushrooms with barley and a garnish of Swiss chard that is to die for.